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How old are my vintage Levi's jeans?
Levi's produced thousands of models over 150 years, its entire history cannot be condensed into one page. If you want to learn more specifics, or if you have a pair you want appraised or to sell:
717-743-1073
Email: webuyoldjeans@gmail.com
Modern-1985
Unless the jeans are deadstock, jeans from after 1985 are often not too desirable. The best way to tell if your pair is modern is to examine your garment for garment wash instructions. These wash instructions were mandated by the FTC in the early 1970s, so if your garment has one, it is not incredibly old. There are many reproductions of Levi's that may appear old because they mimic details synonymous with vintage Levi's, but they are actually modern. Look inside the jeans. Flip them inside out; examine the outseam on the left pocket bag or the back waistband. If you find a little piece of paper. If you find a tag, that means it can't be older than the 1970s.
If your garment has a back patch on the waistband, it should say made in the USA on it. While these garments are not natural treasures, we still purchase them if you are interested in selling them.
This is an example of a caretag that was featured on Levi's garments from the late 80s to early 1990s.
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This is an example of a caretag that was featured on Levi's garments from the late mid to late 1990s .
1984-1973
Around the early 1980s, Levi's transitioned its 501 from selvedge denim to open-ended denim, and this was the end of the famous selvedge outseam that had been seen on Levi's for over 100 years at this point. This era of Levi's, especially selvedge 501s in good condition, is the newest Levi's that are broadly collectible.
However, the 501 is the only model that kept an exposed selvedge outseam into the early 1980s. Levi's produced many denim models prior to the 1980s that had an overlocked outseam. However, these models are worth less than the contemporary 501s.
If you have any specific questions regarding your care tag, feel free to ask. There are many different varieties, so to keep the guide brief, I tried to simplify it.
This is an example of Selvedge, for Levi's. Other brands sometimes have have different thicknesses of the selvedge line.
This is an example of an overlock outseam. This doesn't mean your jeans are modern. Levi's has used an overlock outseam since the 1950s on some models.
1973-1966
In 1971, Levi's began its transition from displaying a Capital 'E on the back tab of Levi's jeans, (LEVI'S) to a lowercase 'e' (Levi's). By the mid-1970s, Levi's had depleted its back stock of capital E tabs and finished its transition to small E tabs. It is a common misconception that all examples with a capital E are pre-early 1970s. However, to this day Levi's uses Tab's capital E on specific Lines. Between 1966 and 1973, Levi's introduced multiple lines with different color tabs, such as Levi's For Gals and Orange Tab. However, these lines are almost always less sought after than Red Tab Levi's.
Notice the Capital "E"
Notice the Lower Case "e"
A common misconception is that Levi's with a blank tab is fake, but since the 1950s, Levi's has been producing garments with just a trademark logo on the blank Red tab.
Some noteworthy models that dated back to this era
Levi's 501
Levi's 505-0217 (Pre-shrunk, zipper fly)
Levi's 502-0117 (un-sanforized, zipper fly)
Levi's 517-0127 (Levi's boot cut)
Levi's 606-0216 (Levi's super slim)
If you have any questions, or garments you think are from this era, feel free to reach out.
An example of a late 1960s garment with a blank trademark tab
1966-1955
In this era, Red tab Levi's had concealed rivets on their back pockets. These were removed as a result of cost-cutting, so if you find a pair with concealed rivets on its back pocket, it's something pretty special.
Notice how just how there are rivets on the front pockets, there are ones on the corners of the back pockets
During this same era, Levi's transitioned from Leather patches to cardboard patches, so if you find something with a leather patch, it is older than 1958.
The quickest way to tell 501s from this era is the back belt loop, if it is off-center, it is from around 1955-1966.
During this era, Levi's began experimenting with many different lines, Wide expansion of Western wear, Californian, and stretch, were all introduced during this era, and while these are not nearly as sought after as Levi's mainline, they are still special and are worth getting a second opinion if you need.
We would be interested in any pieces from this era, so if you find anything and are curious about its value or what you could sell it for. Contact us for a free appraisal.
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Notice the back belt loop is not centered on the back seam
1946-1953
After the war ended, Levi's went back to normal production of their garments. However, many details didn't return. The back belt and crotch rivet never returned, and what was left was the classic 5 pocket denim jean design that has stayed mostly unchanged since. This era has a leather patch and mono-side tab. Anything from this era is special, and we would be excited to help identify and appraise it.
An example of a leather patch on this era of jeans
1946-1953
After the war ended, Levi's went back to normal production of their garments. However, many details didn't return. The back belt and crotch rivet never returned, and what was left was the classic 5 pocket denim jean design that has stayed mostly unchanged since. This era has a leather patch and mono-side tab. Anything from this era is special, and we would be excited to help identify and appraise it.
Notice how the back of the tab is blank
1942-1946
As a consequence of war rationing, the mid-1940s Levi's are bare bones. They removed the rivets on the crotch, and 5th pocket, arcuate on the back pockets, and little belt on the back. There is a lot of variation between pairs, some have the back stitching painted on, and some have different buttons. It was a time of "make do with what you have." Despite the sloppy construction, this era is highly desirable, especially for me personally. There are many reproductions of this era, so please do not hesitate to contact use to help authenticate.
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An example of a WW2 pair of 501s
1870s-1942
It is very very rare to find something pre-ww2, so to simplify it, if the pair has a small belt at the top of the pants, it is pre-ww2 and very valuable. If you find a pair with one you are looking to help narrow down the age and value, please contact us. They are very special.
This is a very old pair of 501s, notice how there is that small belt near the top of the jeans, it was used to tighten your pants without a full size belt or suspenders.